My friend Joey works at a high end clothing boutique and often sees things he wants but in no way can afford. This is of course the story of why many people start to sew including myself. Joey wanted a specific look and knew he could probably make this item himself.
At first he proposed just trying to make it up from scratch pattern and all from a few photos. I convinced him that what we should do is start with a pattern that has similar features and modify it to fit the look of the jacket.
Joey decided Vogue 8435 was a good match. We made changes to the tissue and constructed two muslins out of old sheets before cutting out the project fabric. This pattern is designed to be sewn in a knit which is a far cry from the heavy linen he decided on. We broadened the shoulders and back, lengthening the sleeves and took out all curves at the side seams. The back was designed to be cut in two pieces with a curved center back seam and it was modified to be cut on the fold. Neck was brought down in the back and the entire collar was redesigned and integrated into the front pieces. Also all ease was taken out of the sleeve caps so they would lay flat and drop off the shoulders.
I really want to post photos of the inspiration piece but I hesitate with conflict of interest in mind for Joey considering he's selling this piece currently. Until I get the go ahead you'll just have to trust that the two jackets look very similar.
I'll let Joey explain his take on the project..
ABC Level 3 in Bespoke Tailoring Diploma
1 week ago