Joey and Vogue 8435

My friend Joey works at a high end clothing boutique and often sees things he wants but in no way can afford.  This is of course the story of why many people start to sew including myself.  Joey wanted a specific look and knew he could probably make this item himself.

At first he proposed just trying to make it up from scratch pattern and all from a few photos.  I convinced him that what we should do is start with a pattern that has similar features and modify it to fit the look of the jacket.

Joey decided Vogue 8435 was a good match.  We made changes to the tissue and constructed two muslins out of old sheets before cutting out the project fabric.  This pattern is designed to be sewn in a knit which is a far cry from the heavy linen he decided on.  We broadened the shoulders and back, lengthening the sleeves and took out all curves at the side seams.  The back was designed to be cut in two pieces with a curved center back seam and it was modified to be cut on the fold.  Neck was brought down in the back and the entire collar was redesigned and integrated into the front pieces.  Also all ease was taken out of the sleeve caps so they would lay flat and drop off the shoulders.

I really want to post photos of the inspiration piece but I hesitate with conflict of interest in mind for Joey considering he's selling this piece currently.  Until I get the go ahead you'll just have to trust that the two jackets look very similar.

I'll let Joey explain his take on the project..

14 comments :: Joey and Vogue 8435

  1. Wow, Brian! What an interesting piece on so many levels. An interesting adaptation of a feminine pattern made masculine, a non-sewer somewhat intrigued by making clothes, and some good interviewing skills bringing it all out in a video. You continue to surprise and entertain me. Keep it up.

    Another guy with the sewing bug.

  2. Very nice. I think younger guys can definitely take inspiration from women's fashion. This almost looks like a club jacket.

    Many years ago I made a Vogue Issey Miyake jacket for myself, similar to the one you made, seen here:

    http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/imagenerate/vogue1476.jpg&imgrefurl=http://s116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/imagenerate/%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3Dvogue1476.jpg&usg=__PaKqEtthwTpB1Ok4pyNBuHoFoP0=&h=800&w=649&sz=321&hl=en&start=36&itbs=1&tbnid=11zJ8uRJVNqvLM:&tbnh=143&tbnw=116&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dissey%2Bmiyake%2Bvogue%2B1476%26ndsp%3D21%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26sa%3DN%26start%3D21

    (I apologize for the long address).

    I used a heavy jobbing fleece that was fuzzy grey on one side and black on the other. It looked like wool. I was able to wear it until I turned 30...

    Anyway, good job! Always inspiring to see what you're up to.

  3. I meant jogging fleece.

  4. I enjoyed the banter of the interview, and the photo montage at the end, too!

  5. That jacket is the bomb! Love it.

  6. I'm a wench, and I really, really like what you've done here. (OK, I'm a wench with a serious snap problem.) I made the Issey Miyake coat Gregory mentions above, and may need to take another look at modifying it like this one.

    So, so much better than V8435, which is just blah. Nice work!

  7. Wonderful post and nice to see that you've drawn in your friends to share in your love of sewing. Joey did a great job on the jacket and I think the choice of linen is appropriate for a man being as it isn't as drapey as a knit would be and has a harder edge to it. The video turned out great as well. Kudos to Joey for doing a very nice job!!!

  8. I'm excited everyone liked this little project. We had a really good time figuring it all out. Joey's totally not accustomed to being filmed but we did it in one take with no cuts!

    He wants to make the same piece in super soft lambskin next. I think I need to brush up on my leather construction techniques!

  9. What a great idea to use the Vogue pattern as a starting point. The resulting jacket looks avant garde. Love it!

  10. Fantastic and modern. Finding an avant garde pattern for a woman is hard enough, but for a man? Great idea and I agree that the result is masculine and certainly interesting.

  11. This is great! I love the versatility and it's a really good look for Joey.

  12. wow. i would be very interested to see what the resulting pattern looks like.

  13. I agree with Nancy K. This is a great modern and avant garde look. You and Joey should submit it to Vogue patterns as either a men's or woman's design. nancy2001

  14. Brian, this is awesome. I'd love to see the resulting pattern too, but you've given me enough inspiration that I'm going to start from the pattern myself. (after checking out that miyake piece - thx. Love to see your work here.

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