Or at least assistant master!
One my first failures I had at sewing was "way" back in 2003 when I made my first button down dress shirt. I was obsessed with David Page Coffin and his use of sewing machine feet. One of the feet he uses in making shirts is a hemming foot.
These specialty feet must have been all the rage back in the day because it seems that most vintage sewing machines came with at least one if not multiple in just about every width.
I'm sure lots of people still use these feet but there's not a lot of chatter online about hemming with feet these days. I suppose hemming isn't a very glamorous topic....
In my recent obsession with the perfect button down shirt pattern I've be practicing with my hemming foot. This particular foot has been challenging me since I started sewing. Somehow I just never quite understood how to get it through the curves and keep a perfect and even hem. I've found many work arounds to hemming a shirt without this foot that take much longer but I feel like if David Coffin can make it work, why can't I?
Well that's just what I did, make it work. I spent an afternoon with some strips of curvy cut fabric and my little tiny 1/8" hemming foot. I found that using a short stitch length made it much easier to learn how to control the fabric through the foot.
Here's a quick video I did showing my technique:
Once you get the hang of it it's really quite easy when you're practicing. As these things often go as soon as you start applying the learned techniques to real garments it somehow becomes more difficult and mistakes become easier to make.
ABC Level 3 in Bespoke Tailoring Diploma
1 week ago