a narrow fall.....

The other day while cruising for ideas I came across these pants on ETSY...

 Produced by TheHouseofCanney they have a historical flair without wandering too far into the reenactment side of fashion.  What caught my eye is the front "fall" or "fell" depending on what reference you're reading.  I like this detail quite a lot and have seen it years ago in designer jeans although it's difficult to find much reference to it online.  This similar idea is decidedly not what I'm looking for....
I quite appreciate the outside details on this pictured sample.  The front pockets, buttons, and rivets are really nice with the green corduroy.  Something I'm not super fond of is the serged seam finishing....  While I've been using my serger more these days it's mostly for constructing muslins or finishing off seams that will be completely hidden.  I have really grown to detest serged finishes in my clothing...  Of course now that I've said that I'll likely start using the serger for finishing all my seams just to spite myself.
I like how the back pockets are built into what could be a yoke but I'm not sure?  The adjustments on the back waist are a nice detail but I doubt I'd want them on my pants.

So how does one go about making a pair of narrow fall pants?  The ETSY listing was for "drop front" pants which makes more sense to a modern buyer but does not accurately describe this style if one is to search for a pattern.  It wasn't until I found this reference that things finally started moving.  The author mentions using a commercial pattern but doesn't say which one.  However armed with the proper name for this style I was easily able to locate this pattern from Rocking Horse Farm.

My thought was I'd apply the fall to my regular jeans sloper and use the instructions with the pattern to help me with construction.  This way changes would be much easier to apply after making a series of test muslins.

The pattern I came up with uses a much narrower fall than what the pattern calls for.  As a side note, there is also a "Wide Fall" style of pants in which the fall extends all the way to the side seams.  This wider style has certain advantages I'll go into later.  I chose to included a yoke and greatly reduced the height of the waistband.  At this point, seven muslins later, I'm on my final draft and have cut out what could be a wearable pair of pants.  The Rocking Horse Pattern includes no pockets so I'll be figuring out what I'd like to do when I get working on a final draft.

There are a number of things I've learned that I'll give some insight on as soon as I get a wearable garment.


13 comments :: a narrow fall.....

  1. It's called a Sailor Front. More common on leather jeans worn by the gay leather/sm fetish community.

  2. I'm looking forward to seeing the finished garment. I think those pants are lovely!

  3. Wow, Brian, that's a massive task to take on. I have a pattern for a pair of ladies pants that are similar, but I don't think it has the middle button up bit. I always thought of this style as sailor front, but this version has a great deal more detail than any I've seen before. I can see how for a guy these might be a whole lot more comfortable than a regular button/zip fly front. Given that it was Sydney Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras this weekend past, I can see how these pants would have been very useful. You can open the flappy bit without having them fall down! I'm with you on the serged finish thing. I've been using french seams on the inside of fine cotton blouses and if a garment isn't lined I often do a Hong Kong finish. If it's a quick fix garment that isn't going to be around for too long I will overlock. I also am not a fan of knits made on the serger. I use the stretch stitch on my machine and twin needle the hems. I just bought a coverstitch but have yet to sit down and figure out how to make it work. Will follow keenly the progress of your action front pants!

  4. Wouldn't you know it, they are called Sailor Front as well! Difference being that the buttons usually go up the sides and across the top of the flap but not always.

    Carol, I was just telling someone the other day about Hong Kong finish. I also need to pull out the cover stitch again and revisit that beast.

  5. Hi Bri,
    I made some costumes over the past couple of years for the time period in which these pants were generally worn...Past Patterns has a similar pattern. Small fall trousers.
    There are also wide fall trousers, which you know on sailor pants.
    Here's a link which 'splains the differences pretty good: http://www.northwestjournal.ca/VI6.htm
    -Sarah

  6. Hey Brian, There's a pattern for men's knickers at http://www.outofscandinavia.com/servlet/the-843/Scandinavian%2C-Nordic%2C-costume%2C-bunad%2C/Detail with a drop front. It includes pockets. It might give you some ideas about how to incorporate pockets. I have the pattern but haven't ventured into making it yet. Your post may be the motivation I need to try it!

  7. Just to add my 2cents worth... traditional tailoring refers to this front finish as a "split fall" and they were on breachers and riding pants for military uniform and day wear (16th Century I think, could be earlier)... The under facing and band were laced up and the top "fall or flap" was then held in place with a horn button. I've made some jeans with this finish and they're very comfortable, I inserted 2 metal tooth nickly zips into the facing/fall seam and it was quite easy to finish the exposed zip bottom inlign with the end of the dart... it's a great look. Martyn (Australia)

  8. Hiya

    Here's something similar. Here in Germany 'Zunfthose' are still worn by carpenters, painters, handymen, chimney sweeps etc.

    Near Hamburg, where I live, is a place called Original Veddel, (located in Veddel) which specialises in these trousers. They can get REALLY bell-bottomy, with side zips to conceal the flaryness, and on the flarey triangle you can get it embroidered. There was a link to a tv channel to watch a video, but it's been removed.

    I really found them strange when I moved to Germany, but now I'd consider buying a pair....but don't want to beistaken for a Hausmeister etc.

    http://server4.gs-shop.de/200/cgi-bin/shop.dll?SESSIONID=0431454116711393&AnbieterID=5706

    The modern version is with zips.

    I've looked for a pattern (free and to buy) but cannot find any online! :-(

  9. Damn! Link doesn't take you to a pic.

    Click on the link at the left - entitled
    Der klassiker "veddelhosen"

    Then you can look at some pics.

    Herkules is very flary!

  10. I really like those with the zipper! Thanks Robbie for the link, very cool. I wonder why this style is associated with carpenters and such?

  11. They HAVE TO wear them during their apprenticeship. Im unsure if one would trust a worker who didn't wear them. There's something trustful about the workmen in them. One can trust he has the necessary know-how. I don't question it......cause they're kinda sexy!

    ;-)

    However, it's like kilts. One has to have a sufficient posterior for the garment to look good.....and Lederhosen too, for that matter.

  12. FYI www.tandyleather.com sells 100 Rivets for $6.99

  13. Hey I recently stumbled upon this blog while trying to find where I can get some pants like these. I haven't had much luck :\ If anyone knows itd be much appreciated

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